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Thread: E38 idle tuning

  1. #251
    Lifetime Member hymey's Avatar
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    Hi Guys.

    This thread I started in 2008 and I see there is over 40000 views. There has been a lot of discussion and varied opinions however it allows us to all learn more about the e38 fly by wire tuning.

    I have done a lot more research and development with idle tuning and tuning e38s in general. I have new protocols to follow. I will be doing this in a pdf format for people to download starting with a basic tutorial and working up to more advanced tuning. It allows tuning much faster and easier then old methods.

    If anyone needs questions answered in short term my email address is above. My ph number for Prince Performance Tuning is +61428206383.

    Cheers

    Joel Prince (hymey)

  2. #252
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    I'm curious to see your newer techniques. I can get the basic idle down in my car, but I still run into annoying dips and whatnot now and then.

  3. #253
    Lifetime Member hymey's Avatar
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    Hey Mike. Its a lot simpler however I will go through it in the next week when I get on my pc!

    Cheers

    Joel

  4. #254
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    Looking forward to it Joel +1. I'm still having issues on a couple of points taming largish cams at idle.
    VE Clubby 237/243@112 .618/.614

  5. #255
    Lifetime Member hymey's Avatar
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    Jester with large cams I suggest set injector timing at 400 degrees. In the ect table set it 400 everywhere. And the rpm rise set to zero. This allows the fuel spray to hit the back of valve before opening at low rpm points. At high rpm points its not critical. For a start do this and see if it helps. Works on 240 at 50 cams. Then I will get some info there for u regarding idle protocols in next week

  6. #256
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    Thanks Joel, I'll try that, at the moment I have gone the other way with injection timing removing 21* over the entire table delaying EOI for exhaust closure.
    VE Clubby 237/243@112 .618/.614

  7. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by hymey View Post
    Jester with large cams I suggest set injector timing at 400 degrees. In the ect table set it 400 everywhere. And the rpm rise set to zero. This allows the fuel spray to hit the back of valve before opening at low rpm points. At high rpm points its not critical. For a start do this and see if it helps. Works on 240 at 50 cams. Then I will get some info there for u regarding idle protocols in next week
    Best advice I have had for a long time, cheers mate, this has sorted a couple issues I was having, cold start, off idle, it's actually a pleasure to drive at low rpm now, if it wasn't for my exhaust you wouldn't think the car was cammed, just need to do slight adjustments to the vve again now. Mrs just drove the kids to school and said its a totally different car to drive, that makes me happy.

    Cheers mate.
    VE Clubby 237/243@112 .618/.614

  8. #258
    Lifetime Member hymey's Avatar
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    Awesome. Glad I could help. Injector timing is critical. If you can supply me your cam specs I can get the value better

    Good work

    Joel

  9. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by hymey View Post
    Awesome. Glad I could help. Injector timing is critical. If you can supply me your cam specs I can get the value better

    Good work

    Joel
    No worries
    237/243@.050 LSA 112+2 XER lobes
    16* Overlap
    VE Clubby 237/243@112 .618/.614

  10. #260
    Lifetime Member hymey's Avatar
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    237 242 is a texas speed cam ? Thats 286 deg advertised duration. Half that is 143 degrees. Take that from 110 intake centreline. The inlet opens at minus 33 degrees btdc overlap . Add 360 to get it back to tdc fire so thats 393 degrees btdc compression for ending the injection. Then add another ten degrees on so it hits the back of the valve and atomizes before the valve opens. Thats 393 plus 10. 403 degrees is optimal. So 400 is close enough . Yes vve will be out a bit. Will drive like a stocker with no surging in open loop with fueling timing and most importantly airflow tables correct.

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