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Thread: E38 idle tuning

  1. #351
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    I was attempting to follow the guide on page 3 but Im a bit lost. Im used to my old procharged LQ4 with a monster cam. these e38 pcms are a whole new beast. attached the stock file
    Attached Files Attached Files
    2011 Cadillac Escalade ESV. BTR 218/224 .553/.553 110LSA. Built 6L80 with 278mm Circle D 2800 stall converter.

  2. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by andysc3 View Post
    I was attempting to follow the guide on page 3 but Im a bit lost. Im used to my old procharged LQ4 with a monster cam. these e38 pcms are a whole new beast. attached the stock file
    11-Cadi-esk_auto-vve01_Cranking-Spark_0000.ctz

    Try this and see if it starts and now idles.

  3. #353
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    Quote Originally Posted by andysc3 View Post
    I was attempting to follow the guide on page 3 but Im a bit lost. Im used to my old procharged LQ4 with a monster cam. these e38 pcms are a whole new beast. attached the stock file
    While you're playing with that file, I wanted to give you some constructive criticism about your file.
    This is for a "street vehicle". And also for something that is as heavy as your SUV.

    I wouldn't marry the High and Low octane tables EXCEPT for tuning purposes only. It's a good way to tune for knock. Remove all the variables out. Once done tuning, remove about 25% out of the lower to allow the knock strategy to work properly.
    B5112 - This is an "adder". Be VERY careful leaving that stock. Read the description and figure it out and what it does.

    Get your PE sorted out. Those parameters and commanded AFR are not conducive to power/drive-ability.

    Turn your E-fans on sooner. Cooler engine = more power!
    I'd drop in a colder T-stat if it were me.

    VVE - It looks like you "added" to the VVE tables. That's not correct. A cam is LESS efficient at idle. Especially with a 110LSA. The area under higher vacuum and at idle should be LOWER then stock. Then it likes to "hump" a bit before getting into the higher KPa ranges where it will increase. So make sure you're disabling the MAF and tuning the VVE appropriately. Especially since you have it enabled in the strategy. When MAF tuning, disable it completely for more accurate MAF data.

    Spark Plugs = Ditch the iridium. You modified your vehicle, time to swap plugs more often. Those become a "glow plug" under heavy loads (think towing). Brisk Racing Silvers GR14YS are the BEST plug (ever). Followed by a Copper plug from NGK, 4177 TR6. You want to "shed" heat. Not retain it. That iridium will cause KR over long, loaded, pulls. Get rid of them. That, and with a lower T-stat, you can avoid KR. Also, coolant modded head gaskets help in that department as well.

    That tune needs a lot of work. Go slow, take your time. Read the descriptions and don't be afraid to ask questions.

    Also, shut off the Flex Fuel!!!!!
    Once you disable LTFT's, it doesn't work. GM's FF strategy is sub-par, AT BEST. Add a sensor if you want it. BUT, tune for it. The stock FF tables are atrocious.
    Last edited by SOMFormula; November 2nd, 2022 at 04:55 AM.

  4. #354
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    Quote Originally Posted by andysc3 View Post
    I was attempting to follow the guide on page 3 but Im a bit lost. Im used to my old procharged LQ4 with a monster cam. these e38 pcms are a whole new beast. attached the stock file
    Ok, now to your PID selections for datalogging...
    You want to look at what your foot is commanding AND what the actual throttle body itself is doing. This helps for tuning off throttle situations while driving.
    You want to watch your MAF Frequency AND the amount of air passing is (g/sec).
    You want to watch your ECU's TQ output, for Torque modeling the transmission.
    ECT
    IAT's are important. Sometimes even monitoring the Battery Voltage is needed for High RPM tuning.

    Injector duty cycle isn't all that important. It's good to know if you THINK you'll have a problem in that area. But stock injectors should handle E85 and a cam easily in that truck.

    You have a cam. I wouldn't log misfires any longer. That algorithm doesn't work anymore.

    You'll want to disable the LTFT for tuning. BUT, you definitely need to log the STFT's for any type of tuning (unless your are open loop tuning and watching ONLY the wideband).

    Some idle airflow may be needed.

    Don't overload the PID selections. Maybe make 1 PID selection file for; E38 - N/A Tuning. 2: E38 - N/A IDLE Tuning. 3: E38 - N/A TRANS Tuning.
    Something to that effect so you can not get TOO many PID selections where it gets all jumbled up and confusing.

    Get the PID's sorted out. That way we can help some more on your tuning.

  5. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by andysc3 View Post
    I was attempting to follow the guide on page 3 but Im a bit lost. Im used to my old procharged LQ4 with a monster cam. these e38 pcms are a whole new beast. attached the stock file


    Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #356
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    Thank you. I i will try it tonight when I get home. Timing tables are only the same for tuning purposes. I currently do have the maf signal wire unpinned from the connector. Are the stft still enabled? I thought I had tuned them out. The passenger o2 was siezed in the exhaust and I ordered a new pair. For now I have the old drivers side installed and the passenger side is blocked. I'm in North Dakota so I'm not sure about running a cooler tstat lol. Especially with snow in the forecast for next week. I had ngk tr55s in. After so many failed and almost starts they were covered in carbon so I ordered the stock replacements from autozone. I'll look at the rest when I get home and I'll report back.
    2011 Cadillac Escalade ESV. BTR 218/224 .553/.553 110LSA. Built 6L80 with 278mm Circle D 2800 stall converter.

  7. #357
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    Quote Originally Posted by andysc3 View Post
    Thank you. I i will try it tonight when I get home. Timing tables are only the same for tuning purposes. I currently do have the maf signal wire unpinned from the connector. Are the stft still enabled? I thought I had tuned them out. The passenger o2 was siezed in the exhaust and I ordered a new pair. For now I have the old drivers side installed and the passenger side is blocked. I'm in North Dakota so I'm not sure about running a cooler tstat lol. Especially with snow in the forecast for next week. I had ngk tr55s in. After so many failed and almost starts they were covered in carbon so I ordered the stock replacements from autozone. I'll look at the rest when I get home and I'll report back.
    Timing table - Ok, good. But still take care of that adder. I'd just zero it all out. You'll probably need to remove some timing in peak TQ/high load/low RPM area. Factory sets it too high.

    STFT are shut off. Yes. I didn't know if you meant to do that or not.

    The T-stat will regulate your temps. You want it open sooner. Do a 180 at least and turn on the fan sooner. I drive to Tahoe/Truckee in the winter in the snow. I keep my temps at 155-160 with zero issues. I've done the cold thing before, LOL. You can offset the temps in the ECT Temps Timing table for some more power. That's how I do it. Works great.

    I'd go to TR6's if you can. Stock are iridium. I'd stay away from those.

    They are fouled due to your VVE not setup properly.
    You can fail the MAF in the ECU without unplugging it. Also, you'll want to change B8024/25 to max for Speed Density. Then fail the MAF in the parameters (same way you do in Gen 3). Then you have to set the DCT P0101/3 to A: 1 Trip.

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