Need help ASAP with tuning issues

[esco35m]

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...t-my-door.html

Above is the link I just recently had done to the car. Jason at TSP tuned the car but I am still having drivablity issues. Jason said he will try to help me get my car tuned the only problem is he is not to familar with efi live and I live about 6 hours away from TSP. So I hoping you guys can help me get my car straight.

First of all the car will start right up and idles great. Most of my issues are at normal driving ie bucking at low speeds around 1500 rpm (15 mph first and 25 mph second gear), when coming to a quick stop the car idle dips to 300 rpm swings up to 1200 and does this back and forth. Sometimes the car stalls completly when coming to a stop quickly. If I am parked on my drive way which is very steep and if I let the car roll forward it will drop the idle and sometimes stall. Another issue is if I am stopped and begin to take off the car bogs down so I have to give it lots of gas so it does not die. Same thing happens when I go in reverse.

The car will idle fine. I will post up a my tune file and tell me what you all think. If anyone can adjust or tell me what to adjust I will do so. I would greatly appricate anyones help. I am a complety newbie when it comes to tuning these kind of problems. I will be headed to work and will be checking online for any questions you guys may have. When I get out of work I will be able to attempt to tune my car with any suggestions you all may have. Thank you very much in advance. Mod are posted below.

TFS 215 Heads, 92mm LSX Intake Ported, 224/228 112+4 Comp Cam, Yella Terra RR, Power Bond pulley, Melling Performance Oil Pump, Comp Cam Lifters, LS2 Timing Chain, Harden Pushrods, Textraila Clutch, Quarter Mile Performance lid, SLP Mass Air Sensor, SLP Smooth Flow Bellow, NW 92mm Throttle Body, NGK Plugs, MSD Wires, SLP Tuned Length Headers w/ORY, Magnaflow Exhaust.

[GAMEOVER]

Post up a data log...Do you have any logs?

[GAMEOVER]

To me...IMO, your Spark High Octane table(B5913) looks really weird, some of the transitions from cell to cell are not right...it's not smooth

[esco35m]

When I get home to this evening I will post up a log. I thought the spark table looked a little funnier when I compared it to the efi live repository for the some of the head and cam setups. Any other suggestions, I know the log will help out alot.

[mr.prick]

You need to log RAFIG.
If your fueling is right the likely answer lies in {B4307}.
Idle Tuning

[esco35m]

You need to log RAFIG.
If your fueling is right the likely answer lies in {B4307}.
Idle Tuning

I have a lot of questions.

First can I do the rafig process before the autove is done. I have done the autove once since I got the car back. I did not post this file up because I wanted you guys to see what I was working with. After I did the autove I still had a lot of lower RPM bucking. When I added fuel and timing it most of it went away? However that was a crap load of fuel that I had to add. Im not sure where to start tackling this animal. Should I do the autove over again and then start the RAFIG process and finish off with the idle tuning. I think that the spark table is really off I just not sure when and how much to adjust it. When I get the autove and the rafig process done how will I adjust the spark table?

Second when I do the rafig process does it matter if the car is in Autove configuation and can I just setup the correct pids. I might have missed what all needs to be turned on and off like the autove process. I do plan on running a MAF. I have never did RAFIG process and looked at the tutorial that SPDEAMON wrote. I know how tune the maf. ie Seed density open loop.

Third should I have to mess with the idle set screw on the the TB before the RAFIG or just leave it the way it is. I saw in the thread spdeamon wrote that cammed cars have adjust the idle screw or put a hole in the TB. My TB already has a hole so how much should I adjust the screw if at all.

I am sorry for all the question but I just want my car to run great after all the money that was put into it. I will try this when I get out of work. Thanks for all you help and I will keep you all updated.

[mr.prick]

Don`t mess with the idle screw, make sure TP% is 0 when throttle is closed,
RAFIG can be done in OL and CL it dose`nt matter.
Log right away until the car is a little warm, don`t start driving right away.
You might want to paste and add 50% at first.
Make sure you are not running lean, that can skew logged RAFIG.
Log cold start below 68*F if you can, below looks kind of high to me.
The slope of the table should be roughly the same angle, not stepped/staggered.
I imagine it`s not that cold where you are thus the step up in the low ECT areas.

[esco35m]

I just got done doing the RAFIG process. Now I know this maybe a dumb question but when I was doing the process did the car have to be in gear like the pid. Because I just left it in nutrual. here were my values

68 -3.11
90 -1.55
111 -3.93
133 -4.58
154 -4.55
176 -4.62
198 -4.58

So I am going to subtract these values from the table in the tune B4307.

[5.7ute]

I just got done doing the RAFIG process. Now I know this maybe a dumb question but when I was doing the process did the car have to be in gear like the pid. Because I just left it in nutrual. here were my values

68 -3.11
90 -1.55
111 -3.93
133 -4.58
154 -4.55
176 -4.62
198 -4.58

So I am going to subtract these values from the table in the tune B4307.

In an auto car you need to do both RAFPN & RAFIG. RAFPN in park or neutral & RAFIG while in gear.
A manual car is classed as in gear unless the clutch is depressed so your data is fine.

[esco35m]

Thank you for clearing that up for me. 5.7
BTW nice car in sig.