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Thread: Traction Control Tuning

  1. #31
    Lifetime Member wesam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swingtan View Post
    The basic settings are.....
    • All torque reduction control setting are set to off, except for B0517
    • B0517: TCS Torque Reduction By Thrttle Option - is set to Yes.
    • B2501: TCS Maximum Engine Torque - is set to a value over the expected peak torque. In mine it's 700 Nm
    • B2502: TCS Minimum Engine Torque - is set to the least amount of torque wanted. Mine is set to 80 Nm
    • B2503: Delivered Torque Upper Duty Cycle - set hi, 90% for me.
    • B2504: Delivered Torque Lower Duty Cycle - set medium, 35% for me. I think this helps set the control of the torque delivery when TCS is active.
    • B2514: TCS Throttle Limiter By Gear - All maxed out.
    • B2517: TCS Throttle Limiter By Input Speed -This is where it all happens. Set torque limits for each gear and RPM to suit the traction expected. The real work is done in 1st and 2nd gear. Here are my settings....
      1st Gear
      • 147.625000
      • 157.500000
      • 168.500000
      • 183.250000
      • 220.000000
      • 273.500000
      • 325.625000
      • 399.375000
      • 700.000000


      2nd Gear
      • 162.750000
      • 173.875000
      • 189.875000
      • 215.250000
      • 258.125000
      • 314.875000
      • 388.375000
      • 480.500000
      • 700.000000
      3rd and 4th are just higher settings again.
    • B2522:Torque Reduction Max - I have this set to 100 Nm


    Now, with these settings and TCS turned on ( I.E. I haven't turned it off ) taking off hard on good dry bitumen has virtually no "detectable" wheel spin when sitting in the drivers seat. You can also feel the torque management release as you go through 3000 RPM. If you check the log data though, you can see around 5 to 10 kmh of wheel spin. So there is plenty of power getting to the rear wheels, just not enough to really light up the tires.

    Simon.
    I did not find those parameters in my .tun file is my operating system different ? i have a LS1 Lumina SS coupe (GTO)

  2. #32
    swingtan
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    Quote Originally Posted by wesam View Post
    I did not find those parameters in my .tun file is my operating system different ? i have a LS1 Lumina SS coupe (GTO)
    That would be because those settings are for the E38 controller, not the LS1.

    Simon.

  3. #33
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    I don't suppose some clever bod has produced a set of numbers for B66** numbers (LS1) cotrollers as a jumping off point and would be prepared to share. It would be greatly appreciated.
    Just got off the showroom floor, now lets fix it.

  4. #34
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    Well..

    I have my road runner installed. I will be tuning this a bit in my car these coming days. I am going to strap my car down on the dyno and test and Tune b1902 FIRST. After that it's more or less b6612 to have a complete control of what torque output you get. I believe that once you set both of those tables on the LS1, the rest should come quite easily.
    "All that is needed for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing..."

  5. #35
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    Retarding 9 degrees on a cammed car are going to yield a torque loss far greater than 3% as on the STOCK calibration.
    "All that is needed for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing..."

  6. #36
    Lifetime Member wesam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Highlander View Post
    Retarding 9 degrees on a cammed car are going to yield a torque loss far greater than 3% as on the STOCK calibration.
    Pulling this from a dead
    Did you tried this on dyno ?
    Do you think its linear relationship between timing and torque so 16 degrees of timing will make 6% torque loss ?
    EFILive Tuner

  7. #37
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    My VZ would practically stop when the TC cut in, so I decided any change was probably better.
    As a first step I simply reduced B6603 TCS Spark Retard by 50% and the result was great. No wheel spin, but the torque drop
    when TC cut in was way less. It needs more work but for one change the results are amazing.
    Cheers Steve
    Just got off the showroom floor, now lets fix it.

  8. #38
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    The problem is that when you really want it which is on the WET... torque needs to be cut even more or you will get wheelspin and dangerous situations.
    "All that is needed for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing..."

  9. #39
    Lifetime Member macca_779's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vzsv8 View Post
    My VZ would practically stop when the TC cut in, so I decided any change was probably better.
    As a first step I simply reduced B6603 TCS Spark Retard by 50% and the result was great. No wheel spin, but the torque drop
    when TC cut in was way less. It needs more work but for one change the results are amazing.
    Cheers Steve
    Yep been taking 50% out for years now. It's a good number and allows the driver to actually control a slip rather than take away all power

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