Thanks for the reply Simon
I only did a small run today just to make sure everything was working ok. I will do some more logging once I know everything is set up correctly!!
I will just put today down to experience - or lack of it
Ben
Thanks for the reply Simon
I only did a small run today just to make sure everything was working ok. I will do some more logging once I know everything is set up correctly!!
I will just put today down to experience - or lack of it
Ben
Last edited by Dieselman; March 2nd, 2011 at 11:18 PM. Reason: typo
I don't know if I'm wrong but i thing the B0169 and B0170 which are factors should be increased not decreased to ramp the fuel faster
the stock tune came with a value of 1
in tutorial the value is 0.1
i think we should use some thing like 1.2 for N/A cars and 1.5 for FI cars
EFILive Tuner
The tutorial deals specifically with...
- The tuning of the VVE, which does not really care about how fast PE mode is ramped in. In fact, the slower that things happen during tuning the VVE, the better the result would be.
- The OS that I was working on at the time. In this case, the OS had values of something like 0.01 for PE fuel ramp in/out (from memory). Depending on how you were controlling PE, you could have any value for these tables. It all comes down to giving the motor what it wants.
I've seen values of 1 and higher used, personally I don't go that high but that doesn't mean other values are wrong.
Simon.
Will this only work in OLSD? I remember in the LS1 days I would keep the STFT's turned on and let the car go into CL if I didn't have a WBO2 in the car and just use those to tune the Driving portion. It seemed to work well then. I would use the dyno for the WOT stuff then convert back to the MAF and match it up accordingly. I want to start tuning customers cars with the VVE first like I used to but have been affraid of the tables and have been getting good results with just adjusting the MAF and PE. I hate tuning that way and it goes against what I believe in. Also, when I re-enable the MAF, is that done in OLSD off the WB or could I use the STFT's to tune that also? At the end of all this, is it bad to re-enable the LTFT's? Seems that it may help fine tune everything over time as the engine and conditions change. Thanks.
02 Z06, 573/530rw N/A 416, 10.21@136.12.
In short, yes you can use the STFT's as long as you ensure the LTFT's are either off and cleared, or you add in those corrections as well. It may also badly mess up your OL / PE fueling so you need to be really careful there.
As for MAF vs MAF-less, I've done both for extended periods of time on my car. Personally I prefer running the MAF as the fueling is much more accurate and I can easily run OL with minimal drift between the WB AFR and the commanded settings. In the end though, there is no real difference to an every day driver between MAF or MAF-less.
Simon.
Man...this looks a bit difficult and hard-working for me, that I´ve never worked before.
It's not that difficult. I just re-read throught the tutorial yesterday and set up my tune accordingly. I won't have a chance to implament it till June but the "hard" part is done. Just have the tutorial open in one screen and your tune open in the other side by side and go down the check list. Very easy that way. I really liked that you addressed the IAT vs. AFR issue. Could that also be taken care of in the IAT scaler? I am going to use the IFR scaler as suggested but I was just wondering if the IAT scaler would work like in the old days.
Afte re-reading the tut. again I am going to leave the LTFT's off like I used to and only use STFT's again. The WOT addition or subtraction of them bothers me. I am also seeing the benefits of having the MAF in place for many reasons. Just never liked the thing in the past but it seems that the factory has come a long way on these and they are no longer a restriction or hinderance. When going back to the MAF after all your OL adjustments are done do you return all the tables to stock except the LTFT's? I.e. The OL commanded fuel tables and what not? Also, when you are turning off P0101-3 is it just the lamp or do you turn them off in both diagnostic tables? Seems if you hit them in both tables the car can't recognize if the MAF is still there like deleating the rear 02's. Therefore you won't have to remove the yellow wire from the connector. I just don't know if you do that if you are messing with some of the other check tables that need to be seen by the computer. Great wright up. Thanks.
02 Z06, 573/530rw N/A 416, 10.21@136.12.