i think i remember hearing some noises as i was tightening up the belhousing too. damn thing should of taken my time and done it properly
i think i remember hearing some noises as i was tightening up the belhousing too. damn thing should of taken my time and done it properly
thanks for coming in with the "simple answer" back at the start too
No probs, this can all be a bit daunting getting your head around the syntax.
The guys here are pretty good and are always willing to help and have spent a lot of time answering my gumby questions so I'm happy to jump in if I can.
<fingers crossed> that you haven't damaged anything, better to pull it and find out now than risk more damage if you start it, the broken pump I posted happened "just driving along" a lot of people say this but this time it was the case, 70K on cruise bumped it up to 80 felt a little rough, got to a 100 zone bumped it up again on the cruise and it redlined the Tach...
The Cast Rotor isn't all that strong.
Just went through this on my buddy's 06 TBSS, I didnt seat the converter correctly the first time so we dropped it and he re-seated it before I left. The next day, he thought it had it seated correctly, fired the truck up and it took the pump out. So if you didnt get it seated correctly, very good chance you've damaged the pump and/or converter unfortunately.
~Erik~
2013 Sonic RS Manual - 1.4L I4T E78, tuned, turbo mods, etc.
2008 TrailBlazer SS 3SS AWD Summit White - LS2 E67/T42, bolt ons, suspension, etc.
2002 Chevy TrailBlazer LT 4X4 Summit White - 4.2L I6 P10, lifted, wheels, etc.
With the TC inserted all the way, the TC's flexplate pads should be about 1.125" past the bellhousing surface...
if so, then when you have the transmission bolted to the engine you will see about 0.125" (1/8") between the TC's flexplate pads and the flexplate (i.e. you have to pull the TC out 1/8" to butt it against the fleplate);
if not so, then you would notice the TC is already butted against the flexplate (and pump rotor is now damaged).
ok so how do i fix?
remove and order a new pump or just pump rotor?
how do i check the converter?
I would either replace the whole pump, or disassemble it and inspect/replace.
Inspect the TC's snout, it usually is ok (it's fairly stout).
When do you need the Rotor?
I'm in Melbourne most of this week but I have a few "Spares" at home I can send you when I get back.
I put a CroMo Rotor in mind after it exploded.
Just check the end of the TC Where it dives the pump and make sure it hasn't burred the ends, using a small thin screwdriver in the pump see if you can turn the pump by hand.
With a small thin screwdriver as IJ said, you can also see if the rotor is fragmented.
ill get it back out in the next couple of days or on the weekend and see if i can have a look.
this is the first time i have really messed about with an auto so i don't know a whole lot about them but i tell ya this much its starting to give me the shits.
and its taking too much time away from my main project which is my fully worked 6.0l with 6.2 heads, ported, cammed, full custom exhaust and intake fabricated by me and so on and so on in my big ass nissan patrol.
i can tell ya straight out which project i would rather be putting my time into right now ............ wish i had of taken my time with it now and not just "banged it together in an arvo and 10 beers" absolutley kicking myself