Thanks Joel, yes most likely a TS cam, it's the TKII from GM Motorsports. Ok off to dial the vve in again, once again thanks mate, this has been doing my head in for the last month. If you were in Kalgoorlie I would shout you quite a few beers
Thanks Joel, yes most likely a TS cam, it's the TKII from GM Motorsports. Ok off to dial the vve in again, once again thanks mate, this has been doing my head in for the last month. If you were in Kalgoorlie I would shout you quite a few beers
VE Clubby 237/243@112 .618/.614
Looking forward to your update info mate. Ive got a couple of new projects in progress..
Get EFILive in europe (http://www.efilive.eu).
2007 Escalade ESV L92 6.2L VVT.
2014 VF SV LS3 Maloo.
any update on the new tutorial?
Guys. I haven't had any access to my laptop or PC. It will be a few months until its complete
Google docs, who needs a laptop
<joke> Haha </joke>
Get EFILive in europe (http://www.efilive.eu).
2007 Escalade ESV L92 6.2L VVT.
2014 VF SV LS3 Maloo.
hymey, my cam is 262.2 advertised duration on a 109.6 centerline. Does this mean I should zero out B1206, and then enter -1*(109.6-131.1)+360+10 or 391.5 (I'm sure 390-395 would be ok too) into B1205 and leave all other injection timing tables alone?
My cam is "small" I know...but I've got an Exedy clutch, which has a pretty light flywheel...since the engine has less damping from a heavier flywheel/clutch assembly, I think that makes the cam seem larger than it really is when I'm tuning the idle.
I really don't know if I should play with B1843 and B1845...basically, when I had the stock clutch/flywheel behind the engine, I could hear the cam itself lope, but RPM was fairly stable, and data was fairly smooth. Now that the Exedy clutch is in there, the cam lope sounds drastically different, and I notice the spark advance is never even close to smooth at idle.
If I disable all adaptive things, and use VCM controls to help it idle, I can hear the cam again, but obviously that's not the solution for a DD. I guess this would mean changing the values in B5128/5129/5130/5131 also...but I don't know where to begin there either.
It's a 2010 Camaro SS E38...I think some E38's have different table ID's...let me know if the ID numbers I posted don't make sense. I hate that this car can't idle properly...the setup isn't really crazy at all, but I've constantly struggled with it.
Last edited by MikeOD; July 10th, 2015 at 12:41 AM.
I have an interesting issue and after reading this entire thread several times I have not found the answer. I have an 06 Vette with a 440 LS3 and an A6, I mainly use it for road racing fun. Engine mods include stock throttle body, 102 Fast, L92 WCCH ported stage 3, 231 intake 247 exhaust .617 and .624 lift and 113 lobe centers Comp Cam, and headers. I did not use the approach in this thread because I read it after I tuned the car. I did not drill a hole yet because I don't think I need it but I maybe wrong. The car starts fine, idles well at 800, goes in and out of gear fine and everything seems to be fine except for one weird issue.
It's an automatic and when it is downshifting with the throttle off, foot on brake decelerating the engine rpm climbs between the shifts which creates jerking into the next lower gear and slightly accelerating the car as it jerks and lurches into the next gear. It does this from 4th all the way to first. OK I know you are all thinking sounds like transmission programming or transmission issue. It does it with my stock transmission tune and the modded tune and the transmission has just been rebuilt and modified and it did the exact same thing before and after the rebuild. I have played with shift pressures and other transmissions stuff with no effect. Playing with the idle settings can have some impact but I have yet to figure out what will make it go away. I think the idle is over correcting the idle and I have tried reducing those tables. If I put it in sport mode and downshift it myself manually it works fine.
I did just now try the step by step instructions set forth here by hymey with no luck but I didn't drill my throttle yet either. Since I have no idle or drive ability issues do I need to drill the throttle? When I tried the step by step procedure I got the idle to settle nicely using 1.41 in max idle B1651/2 but when I put back in the step sizes B1845 and 4 (reduced by 50%), and cranked up min idle airflow B1829 the car would not idle and I took min idle air all the way to 28 before I gave up. I did try and reduce max idle area B1651 by about 10% as a last ditch effort to my old tune that woks but that did not help either. I was thinking next I would try smoothing out min idle airflow table but have not got to it yet. Help!
Last edited by RD in SD; January 1st, 2015 at 06:41 PM.