Need HELP! Transmission lasted 20 miles this round

[TLKSCHP]

I believe I have it set to shift at 6800, I have the tune posted above.

As for tq and hp I've never had it on a Dyno but guessing around 600hp

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...=1456165484143

[joecar]

Here is some more info from LS1tech:

A worn 3/4 clutch is one of the most common problems reported here for the 4L60E. Many members have reported premature 3/4 clutch failures after a rebuild.
Whether you are having your trans rebuilt locally or are doing it yourself, it is good be be well informed about this trouble spot.

Here are some useful threads:

Keep finding clutch on newly rebuilt 60e

Question about stock clutches in a 4L60E

2-3 WOT shift problem

I am keeping this thread locked, but will update it regularly with links to other related (open) threads. If you want to suggest a thread, PM it to me.

I will soon add some posts to summarize the problems and solutions, being careful to keep my advice in line with the pro builders here (which I am not).

Joe:

Also see post #17 here:
Performance 4L60E build thread

And especially #11 here:
Keep finding clutch on newly rebuilt 60e

The checkball capsule mentioned in the efilive thread is also a leakage point, but I now think that the input drum is the more common leak point. It would also explain why so many rebuild fail so quickly - the builder simply reuses the input drum without concern, partly because the ATSG manual does not mention it.

Ted.

[TLKSCHP]

So he thinks it might be the case check ball, he had solvent tested it and checked fine but didn't replace it. Looking at what other parts I should upgrade. I've been told billet pump rotor, pinless accumulator? Thoughts on valve for the p1870? Extra capacity pan? Has the reinforced drum, hd2 kit, sonnax servo,. Im sure allot of other parts but idk all of them.

[Road]

The case check ball has bit me more than once. You can remove it and use a cap plug out of a 200r4 kit. Inspect pump stator and input drum real good too. You can use a spring on the tcc valve eliminating the pwm. Good luck!

[5.9mega]

Need to check cooler flow and make sure you have lockup. pm me for my number, I will try to help you get this figured out.

[TLKSCHP]

This is what he has told me so far as of today


3-4 is melted. Case check ball leaked but once I put pressure on it, sealed. Tonight I'll tear the input drum down. Other case is ready to start assembly after I get seals.

At 170 psi I started getted air bleeding out of the 3-4.

Wasn't the checkball. It was in the drum. Pulled it down and the oring looked...odd. looked like it had stretched somehow. Will still be replacing the case and checkball like we discussed and go back to the old valve body as well. Trying to track down a freeze plug instead of the check ball but haven't fully decided on it yet.

[TLKSCHP]

Well got the trans back, had the check ball capsule replaced, different case also, sonnax HD kit, HD2 kit, added. He was gapping the 3-4 clutches to .055 with 7 clutches this time is .028 and 8 I believe. Put it it and felt fine around the block but noticed it was leaking badly. Rear seal was damaged it appeared so I Pulled and replaced it and so far so good. For what ever reason my fueling is now way off on wot before was 10.9 and now 11.5 so I have to do some tuning and serious audible detonation and hope for the best. Fuel may be bad at this point. I think the check ball capsule and 3-4 clutch gap was the main issue oh and he found an o-ring that was messed up.

I would like to thank everyone the offered help & suggestions
Thank You

[joecar]

Set B3618 PE Fueling richer.


Let us know how it goes.

[TLKSCHP]

Fueling wasnt running consistent, one log would show lean next fat and couldn't find a happy spot. found out why today when my new AEM gauge was reading a huge swing and the car didn't run any different. Put a new sensor in and now I'm showing 13.1 wot. But idle and cruising seems normal.

[joecar]

If it's consistent now, then make B3618 a little richer.