Disable DFCO to avoid those wideband lambda spikes... make sure you filter them out (WO2LAM1 > 1.02).
Disable DFCO to avoid those wideband lambda spikes... make sure you filter them out (WO2LAM1 > 1.02).
How should I go about to disable DFCO? what does DFCO do and why should I do it?Originally Posted by joecar
also do you mean to filer out WO2LAM1 is less than 1.02?
I set all the values of b3316 to 0 and all of the values of b3314 to 250. I think this should disable DFCO.
for sure. sorry Ive been out, I was installing my watts link and then the alternator died on my g8...you know how it goes. let me try to explain better...
So the first column in my high octane spark(B5913) has values in the 40's(after 2200 rpm). This column, and then next one(so .08g/cyl and .12g/cyl) represent throttle transients/idle/closed throttle stuff... I actually idle at .15g/cyl, so its rare that I find activity in the .08g/cyl column. anyway. so when your foot is off the pedal,B5932(Base spark in gear) is controlling your timing-at .15 g/cyl, I'm getting 29 degrees. my high octane matches up with that same g/cyl/RPM because ido a lot of back and forth between those cells. if the timing were, say, 20, then when I tool around a parking lot the commanded timing switches between high octane and base spark rapidly making quick timing changes, which leads to miserable surging.
Now, higher up (RPM wise) in the base spark for those same .08 and 12 g/cyl columns, I have them dropped to around 25-30. First, this helps drop rpms more like a carb'd car when I let off the pedal, but it doesn't cause weird timing fluctuation because when I get back on the throttle I'm immediately in much different column (.36 g/cyl for instance).
Now this only really helps hanging idle(more like slow to return to idle) issues, if your not still asking for airflow via throttle cracker or follower. I can't remmber if your n M6 car, but I'll assume you are..(sorry if I'm wrong.)
Cracker
My cracker(B4309) deactivates below 3kph. so it never bothers me at red light rev ups. the row for 400 rpm, is populated with 4g/s(yours should be too) . if it ever gets too low, this helps to boost airflow. I only needed ,5g/s at 1000/6(rpm/kph) in order to catch my return to idle. my cracker in P/N, only asks for 2.5g/s up to 10kph. above that it's zeroed. This helped cause when I was tuning, I sometimes clutched in to listen to something and rpm would drop below ifdle and play catch up.
Follower
My follower(B4315) is identical to yours. OH-think I found it, so your Follower RPM multiplier(B4309), is asking for a minimum of 3.5g/s sometimes 5g/s, AND it delays(B4318) 3 effing seconds(at 0kph) before it starts to decay out that 3.5 g/s. MY whole follower decay Delay(B4318) is .2 seconds. drop your delay to like 0.2 and try reducing your RPM multiplier by..i dunno, a lot(mine is 0 above 2800, and only 2 below that).
Cracker and follower aren't bad, they can do a lot for low rpm parking lot stuff, and general pedal stability. I missed the feel of the carb-wire-pedal, so I prefer to utilize them as little as possible. you may need to put some back in based on personal preference, but this should help.
DCFO is deceleration fuel cut off. when you're off pedal, and certain parameters are met, it will pull timing, and then cut fuel off all together. this is a fuel mileage enhancer, but it obviously causes you to show way lean which will falsify your Calcvet procedure.
W02LAM1 is filtered above 1.06 according to WeathermanShawn(that guy was the best) in the calcvet tutorial. nothing wrong wiht 1.02 like Joecar said, it's just takes more data to get the right cell count.
I am about to go to sleep but I will read through this tomorrow!
So I took all of your suggestions and it worked great! the RPM stayed where it was supposed to when the clutch was in and it idle great. The car ran great untill.........
I was getting onto the highway (around frame 8000) and I could feel the car vibrate and my service engine light started blinking. I only went to approximately 5000 RPM. I limped the car home and looked at my scan tool and got the follow codes, P0134, p0308, and p0300. It said my cylinder 8 was misfiring. This is the only time it was misfiring ever and I could feel the car missing the whole time home (luckily it was a short drive). I am going to take the spark plug out later but do you guys have any idea what could have done this? I look at my retard due to knock and it was at 1.9 from earlier in the drive which I still need to correct but I hope it wasn't detonation that killed the spark plug. The car sounded fine when I was idling it in the garage when I got home so I dont think there was any engine damage. Any ideas what caused this?
Also was my spark timing set to high and that is what caused the retard due to knock around frame 6000?
Here is the log and the tune file.
The more I read up on it, people are saying it might be due to inactivity in that one O2 sensor on the right bank and it might not be the spark plug itself as that is the code for a random misfire (I have been getting codes for inactivity in my 02 sensor.
(
The misfire was rumbling as I accelerated from a stop and it could be easily noticed so let me know what you guys think.
I dont know how, but the 8 cylinder plug wire came off lol(I just reattached it)..... Do you guys have an idea of how that would happen?????
How many miles on the front NBO2 sensors...? If more than 70K miles, probable should replace them.
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