Ok, just going to ask the question. After you flash the cal in and wait for the countdown, are you keying on, key off, and then starting it?
Ok, just going to ask the question. After you flash the cal in and wait for the countdown, are you keying on, key off, and then starting it?
Awhile back i had adjusted the throttle stop open to get more air at idle. As a result the TPS was showing about .7 or .8 volts. Thus i adjusted it back to where it is reading .5 to 6 volts. To increase the air flow i drilled the throttle body plate. This is on a stock throttle body. Then once the screw was adjusted to where it was reading voltage i did a tps relearn to get the % opening reading correctly again.
I'm commanding 18 degrees. I tired the RAFPN method but it didn't work and showed a constant the entire time.
Here is my issue. I know i need to adjust the airflow at idle to lower it. However there is a couple ways i can do that.
1. Should I keep playing with the B4403 IAC Effective area table to increase the amount of air flow it is getting per step? This seems to me like a bad idea because the amount of air flow per step should be the same no matter what size hole is in the throttle body blade. (I'm not changing the IAC in anyway so it won't flow more per step)
2. Simply reduce the Desired Airflow at idle because the bigger hole is letting more air in, thus i don't need to require the PCM to allow as much in. By doing this I assume it will close down the IAC steps. Then simply dial in the VE table to get the correct AFR.
Am i on the right track or is there a better method I should be trying?
Both of those options are wrong.
Increase your idle spark.... set it to around 26.
Increase your desired airflow.... and yes, I do mean INCREASE it. Add about 2grams to every value in your table.
You'll notice that I gave you a metric value to increase airflow... change your tune file over to metric and tune in metric. Also log in metric. I know it can be hard to adjust to, but it will make life easier for you in the long run.... and it will make life easier for those of us trying to help you.
When you've made those changes, do another log and see what values you get for your RAFPN.
Your idle spark should be around 26... and I wanted to see if it takes all the extra air you give it. If you don't want to give it any extra air, then just set timing to 26 and do a log.
Here is a screen shot of the log. Also note that IAC Effective area was put back to stock as it had no affect on IAC steps at idle.
The first screen shot I reduced Desired Airflow by 10% (~1 g/s) and performed RAFPN log again. As you can see it is still pulling timing and idle is lean. However it is idling at the desired RPM, but the IAC steps are still high.
The second screen shot I did as suggested and added 2g/s airflow to the entire Desired Airflow table, and set the base timing to 26 degrees. As you can see it idles way too high with all that air and is pulling back timing, IAC steps are still the same. I believe it is idling so high because it can't reduce the timing any further since it was set at 26 degrees.
(note in all my screen shots the RAFPN is displayed in both lbs/min and g/s for the metric folks)
Everyone suggest IAC steps of 50-70, how do you achieve this? every change made has no affect on IAC steps.
Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Unmetered air could be a cause.
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That's what I wanted to see.... it took all that extra air. In your first screenshot your RAFPN is showing 1.88g and in your second screenshot it is showing 0.00g. Something is wrong with your airflow corrections.
Post your current tune file. I'll update to the latest software this weekend and then I'll be able to look over your tune file.