1998 Trans Am LS7 with Procharger 10 to 11 PSI peak. Thoughts about some fine-tuning

[Black LS1 T/A]

First time I've been able to tune consistently because it broke every 4L60E or build I put in. Now that the 4L80E is living, I got some hurdles.

1. I got some LTFT's going into WOT
2. Tip into boost always hits lean for a moment
3. 50 to 60% throttle (close to boost) was rich 10:1... I began to get away from that, but still struggling
4. I usually have KR in 1st gear, but barely any when rolling and hit from 2nd gear.
5. I finally got more consistent mid 11's for AFR. It seems to like mid to upper 11's.
6. I change from dual Walbros to single Hellcat and upgraded Boost referenced FPR with bigger bowl and 8AN return.. and 8AN Rails

Any advice would be appreciated. Here is some data.

[joecar]

Post IFR, VE and PE tables.


( or post your tune file file and some log files )

[joecar]

Which desert are you in?

[Black LS1 T/A]

Post IFR, VE, and PE tables.
( or post your tune file file and some log files )

LS1B_0796_240207_VE_VBE_Mechanical Blvd.efi

240207_VE_VBE.ctz

This is the one where I basically spun through 1st, 2nd, and most of 3rd before backing out of WOT. (ctz and efi files)

There is plenty of driving data in the log file

[Black LS1 T/A]

Which desert are you in?

LOL... the desert is composited background behind my car.

[Black LS1 T/A]

Walkaround video of it idling
https://youtu.be/GRehF-VDyuM

[Black LS1 T/A]

I described to the guy at the performance shop.

1. Initial startup perfect, settles down into good P/N idle and chops nicely when I put it in gear.
1a. When I touch the throttle, it loses that stability and surges at idle where I have to back out the garage with my foot lightly on the pedal to avoid cutting off.

2. When I get to a stop sign or light, I have to put foot on the pedal to avoid it dropping below target idle and cutting off.
2a. If, while at light, I put it in Park or Neutral, it will idle, settle out, and I can immediately put it in gear, and it chops at 800 RPMs like a champ.
2b. After that little cycle ins step 2a, at remaining stops, it idles just fine without cutting off.

3. If I park the car and come back out the store and start up again, many times it will rev about 2200 RPMs and hang there a few seconds, so I pat the accelerator to settle it out. It then surges up and down in P/N and in gear. I have to drive it a ways, and when I stop, I can cycle back through Step 2a successfully.

Just weird, to me.

I didn't really have this problem with the 92mm TB and I am having trouble dialing this 102mm in.

I have the 102mm on because I bought when I tried running an LSXr Intake (bought used). This was the problem I was having and I thought it was the intake... it just wasn't worth the drivability issue and I couldn't get the idle settled out, so I put the LS7 intake back on.

I have sprayed around the engine compartment and no change in idle tone. I bought a smoke tester and put that on, and there are no visible leaks.

[Black LS1 T/A]

I have P305/R19/35 Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S on the rear.

I know there is not a lot of WOT data. To really move forward, as if racing on the street, I can only give it about 3/4 throttle.
When I WOT, it spins as long as I hold the pedal down, even when I feather it. (I guess that's a good problem to have, in a way).

I am going to put a methanol kit in and then go to the Dyno, then to the track so that I can get some hookup and real data.

I'm running Race Gas Additive right now to avoid all but some spurious KR.