I updated my previous link showpost.php?p=20320&postcount=67 to show where the FlashScan fits in.
If your LC-1 is functioning correctly, then wiring it this way is very simple and will work
(ignore the connectors and just wire direct without connectors to get it working;
connect LC-1 red and blue directly to battery temporarily just to get it working;
do not leave it connected to the battery like this, it will drain it).
Before I installed mine, I bench wired it as follows:
LC-1 red to battery positive
LC-1 blue to battery negative
LC-1 brown or yellow to FlashScan D or E
LC-1 green or white to FlashScan D
I connected the serial link and terminator, and verified the voltage I programmed in was comming out
(measured using DMM and EFILive software).
I also wired the LED and pushbutton together in parallel, and connected all this as follows:
LC-1 black to LED anode
LC-1 white to LED cathode
I then verified that the LED flashed/lit as specified, and that the pushbutton initiated calibration.
In my final installation my LC-1 red and blue are connected to power and ground via the NBO2 connector;
I was able to avoid chassis ground altogether.
If your LC-1 fails the bench programming test, then it could be defective (Innovate had a bad batch back then);
If you ever shorted the brown or yellow wires to any other wires or to ground,
then your LC-1 is broken and will fail the bench programming test;
do not try to flash the LC-1 firmware and this is very likely to break the LC-1.