LM1 doesnt match EFI Live

[minytrker]

Are you using the LC-1 as output to both LM1 and EFILive? If so, are you sure the outputs are programmed correctly?

Yes using it for both. Thats what I am asking. I never noticed it before on my old laptop but on this new one it seems to be getting worse.

[johnv]

Yes using it for both. Thats what I am asking. I never noticed it before on my old laptop but on this new one it seems to be getting worse.

There is a tread here some where about altering the calc for voltage offset using a "voltage offset spreadsheet".

Mine was off with the std calc in EFI, after altering calc it matches perfectly.

Definatly trust the LM1 readout over EFI and make sure you do a free air calibration, preferably with sensor out of exhaust and engine running with a few revs so voltage from charging system is where it would be when logging .

[bK]

Do you know what your voltage offset is? It’s extremely hard not to get a voltage offset between your WBO2 and Flashscan.

I setup my LC-1’d 2nd analogue output to push 2v no matter what the AFR is, on Flashscan that comes in at 1.97V so I use in my calculations to correct the voltage offset to get my correct AFR reading in Flashscan.

I posted how I fixed the voltage offset on this topic> http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=1530&page=3

LC-1 is wired in and working perfect..... Well almost perfect it's got the slightest ground offset of 0.03. I've worked this out from changing analogue 2 output to a flat line of 2V at 10:1 and 20:1 AFR. The reading I get from the Flashscan is 1.97V.

So to get my the calculation for correct Wideband AFR to work perfectly I need to modify the SAE_GENERIC.txt from:
({EXT.AD1}*3)+7.35 TO
(({EXT.AD1}+0.03)*3)+7.35

[Garry]

I setup my LC-1’d 2nd analogue output to push 3v no matter what the AFR is, on Flashscan that comes in a 2.98V so I use in my calculations to correct the voltage offset to get my correct AFR reading in Flashscan.

That's a good suggestion! Maybe this should be added to the LC-1 install how-to ... .02V already can make a difference ... not much, but it's a way to trouble-shoot the install before you even get started with tuning ... if somebody comes up with - like 1V off of what it's supposed to be, I recon it's time to check the cabling ... Maybe though one should use the output that's supposed to be used later for the EFI input be set to a fixed value, that way any variances on the side of the LC-1 can be outruled ...