LC-1 widband hook up

[NAH]

Which side are you needing (O2 or PCM)? If it's the O2 side, you could possibly track down someone (internet classifieds, ebay, etc...) with with some old bad O2's, have'm shipped the cut the sensors off. If it's the PCM side, you might check with a dealership (local or otherwise). I've been able to replace all my PCM side connectors, when I break one, via local GM dealers.

It's the O2 side. Someone from the Piston heads forum has posted this link:

http://www.speedscenewiring.com/gmconnectors.htm

The one I want is the counterpart for nº 11 (heated O2 sensor). I have found a site in the US that sells a connector kit but I nned to make sure that the connectors are compatible:

http://www.ledfoote.com/osc/product_...a0f2e89f2dad27

There seem to be sqaure & round plastic mouldings. As I can't get to the O2 conenction on my car, I can't confirm the exact type, so any help would be appreciated.

The next step will be to email my cousin in OZ & ask him to look at an O2 sensor for a Monaro. Vauxhall in the UK are next to useless.

BTW, for you boys in OZ, looking good for the Ashes

[SSpdDmon]

I had to update this somewhat, so I deleted my original from page one.

Ok, here's how I did it so everyone can have a common point of knowledge....

I started out wanting to do this by replacing the stock B1S1 narrow band O2 without having the PCM freak out on me. The answer came to me while working on a friend's car. His O2 was acting up and he decided to replace it. So, we took his old O2 and chopped the connector and wires off of the end of the sensor. This provided us with a connection to a 12v source, a heater ground, and the analog 1 signal wire to feed the PCM. You'll need quite a bit of spare wire to get back into the car (about 25ft to make three 6~7 foot extensions). I chose to use a slightly thicker guage wire because I didn't want to loose voltage from one end to the other. If you choose to do it this way AND you have the new 7-wire LC-1, here's what you need to do.

1. Make sure you're working on a cool car to avoid serious burns. Catalytic converters and transmissions especially hold heat for some time after you turn the car off. Remove your stock NBO2 from your car.

2. Connect three 6~7 foot strands of wire to the spare O2 connector (B, C, and D). If you don't have a spare, you can buy an O2 extension and chop the male end off.

3. On the end of the connector (from step 2), the wires are labeled A, B, C, and D. If yours isn't labeled or its worn down, check the one you removed in step 1. Wire "A" (TAN) needs to be grounded somewhere. Look for a clean connection on a nearby exhaust shield or chassis bolt. Wire "B" (PURPLE) is connected to the analog 1 output. Wire "D" (BROWN) is your switched 12v source. Wire "C" (BLACK) is your heater ground. Make the appropriate connections to the LC-1.

4. Connect the analog 2 output to either the C or E location on the pin-out. **Make sure you take note which one you connect it to so you can log it later on.**

5. Connect the system ground and the analog ground to the D (middle) location on Flashscan's 3-wire pin-out.

6. Plug the spare connector into the female end under the car.

7. **First time use** With the WBO2 still disconnected from the LC-1 interface, turn the ignition to run (do not start motor) for 10~15 seconds and then shut it off.

9. Connect the wide band sensor to the interface. Make sure the sensor is exposed to air (not in exhaust). Turn the ignition to run again, this time for 2 minutes and then turn it off.

10. Install the wide band into the stock location of the exhaust.

11. Connect the DB9/stereo cable to your laptop and the serial out connection from the LC-1. Connect the terminator plug to the serial in connection from the LC-1.

12. Open the LC-1 programming software. Select the analog 2 tab at the top. Select "use air-fuel-ratio." Type 0.5v=10AFR and 4.5v=18AFR in the boxes provided. Click program.

Congrats. You're now ready to log. Choose the Tech Edge PID in the scan tool and go have fun!

**Edit** I wasn't able to figure out what to do to get the simulated NB signal to "switch" before I sold my LC1. When hooked to the car in closed loop, it would show .440~.460mv consistently. Unfortunately, this is not a true simulation of our sensors. I've updated my write-up (02/13/07) to show the last known way that should work for the NBO2 simulation. However, I am unable to test this without my LC1. Until someone figures out how to fix this for sure, THE ABOVE SETUP WILL ONLY WORK IN OPEN LOOP OPERATION. If someone figures out how to fix this, please let me know so that I can update this walk-thru. Also, it is no longer necessary to change the LC1 output and select the Tech Edge .pid. The factory output and default EFI Live formulas should work. Thanks!

[NAH]

I have wired mine similar to your method except I have made a conenction between 'A' on the OEM car loom plug (step 3 above) & the GREEN wire on the LC-1.

I can't get the NB02 to switch either.

[joecar]

I have done the same as NAH... LC-1 green goes to NBO2 pin A.

When I run CL, I get switching just fine, but I had to play with the LC-1's NBO output step/curve.

[voda1]

Clarification

Wire "C" (BROWN) is your switched 12v source. Wire "D" (BROWN) is your heater ground.

Shouldn't it be:
Wire "D" (BROWN) is your switched 12v source.
Wire "C" (BLACK) is your heater ground.
by the drawing shown?

[SSpdDmon]

Clarification


Shouldn't it be:
Wire "D" (BROWN) is your switched 12v source.
Wire "C" (BLACK) is your heater ground.
by the drawing shown?

Good eyes. Fixed. Thanks.

[voda1]

I misread this line:
5. Connect the system ground and the analog ground to the D location on the pin-out.
Changing it to:
5. Connect the system ground and the analog ground to the D location on the FlashScan pin-out.
would make it clearer.

Ground Confusion

From the EFI LC-1 Installation pdf. Page 4
#2 Signal Ground:
Connect a wire from the LC-1 Green(analog grd) and White(system grd) wire's ground connection to the D location of the EFILive External connector. D is in the middle of the 3-wire connector.

On page 5
Picture 7
*The black wire is connected to the same Signal ground location as the LC-1(green-analog, white-system wire) and is connected to the FlashScan Pin D "Common Analog Ground".

*Does that not imply a ground lug with blk, grn, wht wires attached?





From the Innovate documention under Mounting and Wiring the LC-1
5. The BLUE(heater grd) and WHITE(system grd) wires should all be grounded to the same ground source and although these grounds are of the same source, the BLUE wire should be wired separate from the WHITE wire to avoid analog ground noise.

**6. Note: The LC-1's heater ground(BLUE) and system ground(WHITE) wires should be grounded at the analog input's ground

**Does that mean the ground lug now effectivly has all 3 grounds attached?

Also the above drawing shows a connection within the stock ox sensor hi to low and then to [ground and term A].

It looks like there is a difference between using the factory ox harness for power with NB2 capable or not using factory harness. I want to use the factory harness and NB2.
Is/should there a ground lug with white wire(sys) and wire from the FlashScan D term?
Should the blue wire(htr) goto ox sensor harness C term or ground lug?
Should the green wire(analog) goto ox sensor harness A term?

[SSpdDmon]

I can update that other line too. I assumed by saying 'pinout' people would understand that I was talking about Flashscan's 3-wire connector.

As for the grounds, ONLY THE SYSTEM AND ANALOG GROUNDS SHOULD BE CONNECTED TO FLASHSCAN. I believe it clearly states in Innovate's instructions that you shouldn't connect the heater ground to the same place as the others. I'll have to double check. The heater ground should be connected to a chasis ground (or via the NBO2 connection if using as a power source).

[voda1]

Quick and dirty sketch attached. Since C term in Ox harness runs back to Splice Pack #122 on bottom of the CarDomain drawing.
The label Grd is just a connection point.
Please explain this line from EFI docs -
On page 5
Picture 7
The black wire(not from the LC1) is connected to the same Signal ground location as the LC-1(green-analog, white-system wire) and is connected to the FlashScan Pin D "Common Analog Ground".
What is the 'same Signal ground location'?

[joecar]

Don't connect LC1-black to any ground; this is not a ground wire (see note 2 below).

It's best to not connect LC1-white or LC1-green to common ground...
connect either of them to the "return" of the measuring device (FlashScan-D or NBO2-A).

Don't connect FlashScan-D to common ground; connect it to LC1-white or LC1-green.

If you want NBO2 simulation, connect either LC1-yellow or LC1-brown to NBO2-B.

Don't connect NBO2-A to ground, even if it appears to already be "grounded".

Summary:

LC1-red -> NBO2-D
LC1-blu -> NBO2-C
LC1-yel -> NBO2-B
LC1-grn -> NBO2-A

LC1-brn -> FS-C or FC-E
LC1-wht -> FS-D and pushbutton/LED cathode(-)
LC1-blk -> pushbutton/LED anode(+)

Notes:

1. Note that LC1-white goes to 2 places.

2. Note that LC1-black drives the LED, and initiates calibration when shorted to ground (LC1-white).

3. Note that LC1-green and LC1-white can be interchanged and/or connected together,
and it's best to avoid connecting either of them to common ground.

4. If NBO2 heater power/ground is turned on/off by PCM, then you have to power the LC-1 by means other than NBO pins C, D... the reason for this is that the later PCM's manage NBO2 heater power via PWM.