EFI live = Incomplete tuning package!!!!

[Garry]

Watch out with "just calling it ground" ... IIRC, it does want/require you to use two separate grounding places (even though in theory there shouldn't be any difference), otherwise you will have trouble with the data it delivers ...

[Beer99C5]

Black goes to ground, blue goes to ground and white goes to ground. Green goes to ground to if you got one. The only one on a different ground would be the black calibration wire, though I don't nesc read that anywhere.

On beer's diagram, I see the white wire grounds out independantly of the ground bus, or it appears that way.

The one variation I used was the EFI instructions recommended yellow to the analogue in on the EFI live tool and the brown wire to the gauge.

is that right?

You can use the analog outputs as you feel necessary, Yellow or brown, you just need to ensure you program the outputs correctly.

The black is the cal button, yes, it goes to ground, however, it also provides troubleshooting ability and calibrating ability.

Here is the LED and Cal Button setup in my panel.

[NASABlue]

wow that's a nice install, I'm putting my AFR gauge in that location as I'm not running the nos.

So I think I have the wiring ? aswered then

Black calibration goes to a different ground location, but the rest can go an the same ground bus.

Do you concur?

[Beer99C5]

Yes

Here is a single gauge variation for the C-5 No cutting required of the console.

[NASABlue]

very nice, I have mine mounted already. I drilled a hole next to the screw mounting hole and one int eh bottom of the ash tray for the mounting posts of the gaure to push through. It fits like a glove (of course).

I'll take some picts after I finish all the connections. I will be crimping for now......

Speaking of the gauge mounting posts, those don't need to be connectd to anything wire wise do they. I've definately installed gauges that have been this style that have those brass looking mounting posts......

May be I'm too anal for this line of work...... I just hate rework....

Thanks and happy mother's day from another of your efi live children.....

[NASABlue]

check out my attached schematic and tune as left from my tune after the lg pro header install, bbk mani, and 1.8 rockers in the att bin file. I'm always open to recommendations.

I got 369 hp and 379 ft of tq and the tuner couldn't get any more out before the cam


Thought I could get this out there for examination as compaired to the addition of 228/232 .622/.630 111 +2 cam, lingenfelter edlebrock 202cc's (afr 205 equiv) lt wt pulley and clutch w/ 8.7 dcr.

So those are the mods to which I need to adjust.

I do have 42 # injectors I could easily put on if we have some trim settings... I have the spread sheets but I figured one thing at a time......

[joecar]

NASABlue,

I don't remember, do you have a FlashScan V1 or V2...?

The LC-1 is very simple:
- red -> switched/fused battery,
- blue-> battery ground,
- brown -> FlashScan ADn+ input (signal),
- white or green -> FlashScan ADn- input (signal return/ground),
- black -> pushbutton/LED anode,

The white wire may or may not need to be connected to battery ground...
try it either way and see (bench test before you install)...

The green wire was the signal return, but the white wire does the same thing...
If you have a metal braid wire (not the foil sheath), then this is signal return also...
but white also serves this purpose.

If you use yellow to drive the NBO2 input to the PCM, then you have to do this:
- yellow -> NBO2 signal high,
- white -> NBO2 signal low.


I can't read your diagram... ...draw it like you was going to give it to someone to troubleshoot a problem.

Cheers,
Joe

[joecar]

Is it logical to assume that because I do not have a green wire but do have a white wire That the middle pin just goes with the white wire ground?

One set of instructions say connect it to the white and green (which I dont have). But I do have a white (system ground) and blue (heater ground) wire which are supposed grounded together.

Therefore it is logical to wire the middle to the white wire's ground.

And I will ground the black calibration wire else where.

Which is what I'm going to do now.

Agreed with the quilted together information gathering is TEDIOUS. It seems like rather than offering a "System" approach that is easy to hook up and learn, it is more of a badge of honor to blutten your way through.

I would further add the material available looks a bit dated and that may be why it seems to conflict between various sets of instructions. Thus far the innovative instructions have been the most accurate.

Is EFI live on the same path as ls1 edit and that's why everyone seems to be going to a more relivent and user friendly HP tuners?

Yep, you got that white wire figured out...

Ground the black wire thru the pushbutton/LED is what I hope you mean...

[business_like_tone=on]

Bro, if you ever modded your car you know that's how it is...
nothing ever falls into place unless you first research it...
and, "some parts may require filing, drilling, or machining"...
It's got nothing to do with honor, but it has everything to do with learning...
when you install a head (which you had milled to increase CR), you learn how to put the gasket on right and how to check for correct rocker geometry... it doesn't all just fall together, it requires effort... and even then it may not work right so you have to redo it.

Yes, some of the material may be dated (and other of it is timeless), I agree...
we're looking for volunteers to update the various instructions...
I don't totally agree with the Innovate instructions in regards to system/signal ground (ground loops), and even Innovate doesn't agree with their own instructions...

If you think HPT is more user friendly and more relevant, then why are you here...?
If you got into bed with HPT, would you be telling them the same thing...?
The grass is always greener in someone else's backyard...

In here do you see anyone treating you bad [after you come in here shooting off, and without doing your homework]...?
If you go to school/college/whatever, the "knowledge" is not handed out... but rather the student has to learn it (by doing the work, homework, research, papers, lab classes, etc), and the learning path always has it ups/downs... [the downs are the best lessons I ever learned].

[business_like_tone=off]

Are you having fun yet...

Cheers,
Joe

[405HP_Z06]

[business_like_tone=on]...... we're looking for volunteers to update the various instructions...

I'm game, where do I start? What's the change control process?

If you think HPT is more user friendly and more relevant, then why are you here...?
If you got into bed with HPT, would you be telling them the same thing...?
The grass is always greener in someone else's backyard...

Speaking from experience, EFILive is a better tool to work with than HPT. I have both and find I can do things in EFIL that I can't do in HPT. The one thing I'm still trying to get used to is the transposed columns/rows in EFIL v. HPT. It just seems more logical the way they are layed out in HPT.

In here do you see anyone treating you bad [after you come in here shooting off, and without doing your homework]...?
If you go to school/college/whatever, the "knowledge" is not handed out... but rather the student has to learn it (by doing the work, homework, research, papers, lab classes, etc), and the learning path always has it ups/downs... [the downs are the best lessons I ever learned].

[business_like_tone=off]

From the outside looking in, everyone has been very cordial throughout this discussion. Tuning is difficult, no two ways about it. The ever elusive PCM map and silver bullet tuning checklist doesn't exist, yet.

I've found that wading through all of the content for the relevant topics that affects one at any point in time is difficult.

Are you having fun yet...

Cheers,
Joe

between brief moments of

[joecar]

Hey, life (tuning) is a bumpy road...

Cheers
Joe