BBL Logging and PID Selections

[joecar]

I was comparing your log to some of my logs...

My 2001 WS6 with stock intake manifold (LS6 part no.), stock exhaust/cats: WOT, 5800 rpm, MAP 94 kPa, my MAF read 276 g/s...

You've got LS6 cam, FAST 92 intake, long tube headers and test pipe: WOT, 6500 rpm, MAP 97 kPa, your MAF reads ~260-270 g/s...

Maybe your MAF is ok, but it may be good to check it.

[kwhiteside]

I was comparing your log to some of my logs...

My 2001 WS6 with stock intake manifold (LS6 part no.), stock exhaust/cats: WOT, 5800 rpm, MAP 94 kPa, my MAF read 276 g/s...

You've got LS6 cam, FAST 92 intake, long tube headers and test pipe: WOT, 6500 rpm, MAP 97 kPa, your MAF reads ~260-270 g/s...

Maybe your MAF is ok, but it may be good to check it.

Your obviously a drag racer. Sure is much easier to read just 4 shifts a quarter mile at a time! That's fun too. different thrill, but a thrill none the less

[kwhiteside]

Good log, very interesting... 43+ minutes...

Log shows:
- LTFT's ranging from +12% to +25% (pegging)... indicates MAF may be reading low,
- WOT: actual AFR is richer than commanded AFR by at least 1 AFR,
- WOT: actual AFR is going as low as 11.0,
- CL: actual AFR at stoichiometric equal to commanded AFR... indicates wideband is functioning,
- closed throttle: actual AFR spiking lean (is DFCO enabled...?),
- fairly consistent knock at WOT,
- injector duty cycle hitting 100%;
- there are a few places at WOT 6000+ RPM where MAF is well under 300 g/s;

I'm not sure, but I think maybe the MAF is dirty (only clean with MAF cleaner)... check the air cleaner filter also;

Maybe do this (in this order):
- recalculate B4001 IFR (even if to just sanity check it),
- redo the VE table (AutoVE, in OLSD) if you haven't already (get a log in OLSD anyway),
- correct MAF (using AutoMAF, in OLMAF with B0120 zeroed), get MAF ben to 1.00, get some logs;

Set high load areas in B3605 OL AFR and B3618 PE AFR to something like 12.6.

Once you get the actual AFR matching the commanded AFR, then your injector duty cycle will probably go down a bit.

Questions/Comments:
- you're NA so AFR 11.0 is a bit too rich;
- have you considered running a few laps in OLSD...?
- I don't believe the oil cooler will affect your IAT.
- why is knock being indicated...?
- check if motor ingesting oil thru PCV...?
- does engine top have carbon deposits (have you ever had top engine cleaner)...?
- how many miles on engine...?
- sawtooth pattern on KR indicates it may be real knock (especially during WOT pull);
- from frame 10006 ECT starts to show higher trend... why...?

Create some maps like the one attached to see if you can correlate KR to something.

My $0.02...

I made my first map attempt. Thought interesting that the worst knock doesn't come at top SPEEDs. I went back thru the graphical log and to the best of my understanding, it happens most at the end of the straights, when I let off the gas partially just before the braking zones. ( I know, your supposed to gas all the way to brake, but sometimes your nuts come up into your throat and you need a second to get ready ) That is also the time when that ring flutter happens, high rpm but low load. Perhaps the little oil in the chamber messes up the mixture. Can the car really react that fast to stuff, I mean split second monitored I suppose by the O2's on way out, tell car to knock retard?

[mr.prick]

That's quite a bit of KR.
You might want to lower the {B6203} (30%) and raise {B6207} (50%)
If you still get it subtract logged KR.

[kwhiteside]

That's quite a bit of KR.
You might want to lower the {B6203} (30%) and raise {B6207} (50%)
If you still get it subtract logged KR.

Thanks for the input, all is appreciated. I didn't even know those existed as I'm very new to this. Having looked at what you suggest though, it kind of seems like treating the symptom and not really fixing the problem. If you have read JoeCar's posts above, there are most likely some mechanical problems causing my problems, plus base tuning most likely needed after resolving those problems. Again, I totally don't know what I'm doing yet so this is just my gut thought. Hopefully Joe will chime in.

I'll be cleaning my MAF, TB, Vararam Filter, checking for leaks, Intake torque by end of weekend and try to do the AutoVe. The findings from all this should lend some very good facts.

[joecar]

I know that stock 2001 F-cars knock quite a bit...

I don't know if 2001 Z06's do the same...

Some year/models (1998 F-car if I remember) had 4° KR consistently (caused by bad knock sensors and/or subharness)...

Some year/models do not knock at all... or hardly ever.

There are reasons for knock being detected... the difficult part is finding the exact actual reason(s)...

it can be a real detonation and/or pre-igniton (some of the causes were mentioned above)...

it can be false knock (piston or valvetrain noise, LT header banging into chassis, broken/loose flywheel, broken/loose motor mounts...)...

it may even be due to bad knock sensors...

the PCM sees signal(s) from the knock sensor(s), filters it, and deems what's left to be knock, and ramps KR in/out based on the "volume" and "duration" of the filtered knock signal...

Real knock is damaging... the mixture instantly explodes (instead of burning in an outward spreading ripple like manner), causing cylinder pressure to spike very high very sharply... this is what causes failures in head gaskets, pistons, crank and rod bearings... every little bit of real knock is contributing to damage (altho small amounts of knock thru-out the life of the engine may not necessarily amount to a failure)... a larger knock sustained for some amount of time (e.g. medium to severe knock lasting say 5 to 10 seconds during say a lean condition) can cause immediate catastrophic failure (melted/cracked piston, broken ringland, failed bearing... or worse).

Sometimes we can do something about it, but sometimes we can't.

[kwhiteside]

Hey Joe and Blacky,

I had the car up in the air for a while doing a bunch of mods. I put it back in service today and took my first stab at the AutoVE tutorial.

Oh, during the mod week, I took my intake stuff apart and cleaned the MAF with a can of MAF Cleaner, verified the Vararam filter was clean, and the Throttle body was also clean. My FAST Intake manifold was loose again. I've torqued it down and will be watching it like a hawk. It was surely loose during my last track day where my logs you guys looked at were from.

Back to the AutoVE tutorial. Something doesn't look right, see pics. for some reason the Ben is lined through, but data tab showed every pid under the sun. When I hit the avg butten, every cell goes to zero. When I copy the map cells with values over to the main ve table, it looks all jacked up, especially in ranges where I had lots of cell counts logged.

I'm ready to focus on my tune for a while and it seems that the car runs fine even with this wierd tune flashed into it, so I could drive it to work and get some 30 minute logs.

I also don't really know how to tell if I triggered the MAF failure that needs to happen. I left my MAF plugged in as instructed. Is there a quick way to tell if the MAF tripped errors?

[Blacky]

Something doesn't look right, see pics. for some reason the Ben is lined through

That PID is not selected or is invalid for some reason. Find it on the F8 tab page and right click on it ans select More info to find out what the problem is.

When I hit the avg butten, every cell goes to zero.

That's because the average of a PID that is not being logged (see above) is 0.

When I copy the map cells with values over to the main ve table, it looks all jacked up, especially in ranges where I had lots of cell counts logged.

You should not copy/past the cell count values. You should only copy/paste the average (or min/max) values. Which will be in the range 0..2 (for BEN factor PIDs).

I also don't really know how to tell if I triggered the MAF failure that needs to happen. I left my MAF plugged in as instructed. Is there a quick way to tell if the MAF tripped errors?

DTC P0102 will be set. You also have to change that DTC to not turn on the MIL otherwise you're MIL will be on all the time.

Regards
Paul

[kwhiteside]

I've got the p0101-p0103 set to no mil as instructed.

I can't select ben-lc11 because it relies upon ext.ad1. I'm using serial not analog so I can select ben1 that relies on ext.woafr1, but I can't pick that inside the map for some reason.

[mr.prick]

Is CALC.BEN1 selected?
That is the serial WBO2 BEN PID.
It needs EXT.WO2AFR1 and GM.AFR to be selected to be valid.