"Breaking up" when in boost?

[swingtan]

Yep, sounds like the WB is playing up. What brand is it ?

[DrX]

They are LC1s. Strange that they would both show a huge spike at the same time. Wouldn't be the first controller gone bad on me though. May be time to look at something different again.

[joecar]

Did you ever find out what caused #1 spark plug to look different...?

[DrX]

Did you ever find out what caused #1 spark plug to look different...?

Have not found anything specific yet. All circuits(injector, coil, spark plug leads) tested good. These plugs were in place during the time that the catch can was overfull though. Not sure if it had something to do with that or not. I swapped the plugs around and will check them again after I put a few miles on. Only thing I have not pulled out yet are the injectors, but I would expect that they were tested before I purchased them as they are supposed to be both flow and latency matched. I did check that each one "clicked" when the control circuit was momentarily grounded, and that the connectors were plugged into the correct injectors.

The apparent rich spikes in the logs were actually on bank 2. I had the serial connections swapped.

I also swapped the wideband sensors themselves as a test, but the erratic behaviour stayed on bank 2. I'm now getting an Error 8 from that controller. I did also relocate the sensors from just after the collectors to the header collectors. I performed heater recals and free air cals on both sensors when I swapped them. So the controller is telling me that the sensor that was working fine on the other controller is toast. The one that was appeared to be misbehaving on bank 2 now seems to operate correctly on bank 1.

Error 8

Sensor Timing error(typically a damaged sensor).
Likely cause:
1. Sensor overheating. (The Bosch LSU4.2 is rated to operate at a sensor housing temperature of < 900 degrees (measured at the bung) for maximum accuracyand control. When this operating temperature range is exceeded, the sensor can no longer be accurately controlled. )2. Sensor is damaged

Fix:
1. a. Perform sensor heater recalibration;
b. Move your sensor bung as far downstream as possible. Right before the cat, or 2-3 feet from the end of the tailpipe are good locations;
c. Add a heatsink to isolate the sensor from the pipe. The HBX-1 is an available accessory.

2. Replace sensor.

[DrX]

Well I put around 200 miles on after swapping the plugs 1><3, 5><7 and similar on bank 2. I was in boost several times yesterday while passing on the highway and drove at 3000 RPM for the 60 mile trip home due to the 80E deciding to lose 3rd and 4th gears after being parked for a few hours. I did give it a .3 sec shot to 88% TPS after leaving the parking lot. It just stayed in 2nd after that.

The catch can was full when I got home. I pulled the plugs today and this is how they looked. The former # 3 which was now in #1 (far left)is now brown like the original #1. The plugs that were in 1, 3 and 7 all appear oily this time.

[joecar]

It is pulling in oil... when I saw that pic I was wondering why only on #1... now I'm wondering why #5 is not oily.

Which PCV system do you have (LS1 or LS6)...?

How quickly does the catchcan get full...?

Bummer about the trans.

Error 8: I find suggestion 2 works the best.

[DrX]

It is pulling in oil... when I saw that pic I was wondering why only on #1... now I'm wondering why #5 is not oily.

Which PCV system do you have (LS1 or LS6)...?

How quickly does the catchcan get full...?

PCV arrangement is using both valve covers. There are no baffles protecting the ports in these fabricated valve covers so it is very easy for oil to blow into the hose. The can was empty before the 120 mile drive on Saturday and full when I got home. Will have to modify these or find some new ones tall enough for the shaft mount rockers.

[joecar]

Using the out ports at the rear of both valve covers and the in port at the front of the RHS valve cover...? [ this is LS1 style ]

I have found that this arrangement pulls oil very quickly (when accelerating, oil pumps quickly to top of heads, and acceleration induced force pushes oil to rear of valve covers where it is promptly pulled into the intake manifold); I reversed the air flow so fresh air enters at the rear of both valve covers, drilled a hole in the oil cap and fitted a rubber grommet to hold the PCV valve, and capped the port at the front of the RHS valve cover; this works quite good at preventing oil being pulled in, even at WOT since there is a 1-2 kPa pressure drop across the throttle body, and the oil cap is the highest point on the valve cover; if you're clever, you can drill the oil cap part way thru thereby creating a baffle.

In your case, boost is pushing air in thru the front of the RHS valve cover, thru the block, and out of the rear of each valve cover (where oil accumulates during acceleration).

[DrX]

There is no boost going to the valve cover. The RHS valve cover has been connected to either the cold air intake duct between the filter and the throttle body or to atmosphere, both via a catch can as I have seen a small amount of oil backing out this side as well. The LHS valve cover has been connected to a fitting at the inlet end of the blowers(after the throttle bodies) via a catch can. Hopefully vac is low there at WOT. It was probably high during my entire 60 mile, 3000 RPM trip the other day.

Here is a pic showing the location of the fittings on the valve covers.

[joecar]

Hmmm I see... which of the catchcans is filling up...?