Sanity check, please...

[Rich Z]

hahahah niiiice.


PS.....I just did some tuning and I recreated your "burp" LOL Coupler popped off but enough air was still going through the MAF to keep it running. On the plus side I saw a nice drop in MAF Hz since I ran more 4" tubing in front of the MAF....maybe there is hope for me yet. Now if I could just keep the couplers together

One of the guys on my own forum told me that some of the turbo diesel guys he knows will use hairspray when putting couplers together. The hairspray acts as a lubricant while wet, but then dries as an adhesive. Never tried it myself, personally, but thought it was worth mentioning here.

[EagleMark]

That may work? It's an old school dirtbike trick to get hand grips on the handlebars as well.

[ddnspider]

Yea I've heard of the hairspray trick, just never tried it either. I was a bit impatient to finish tuning so I didnt have any 4" t-bolt clamps handy either, so worm clamps it is until I can get some.

Anyways, I don't mean to hijack your thread. I have my own thread of misery

[Rich Z]

Yea I've heard of the hairspray trick, just never tried it either. I was a bit impatient to finish tuning so I didnt have any 4" t-bolt clamps handy either, so worm clamps it is until I can get some.

Anyways, I don't mean to hijack your thread. I have my own thread of misery

No worries. It's all good....

[hog]

It helps to "rough up" the shiny plastic MAF ends, you can even "machine" shallow grooves. It doesn't take much, just needs something to grip onto.peace Hog

[Rich Z]

OK, got the coupler in that I was waiting for and got the airbridge back on. Of course, it's been raining here EVERY day and doesn't look like it will break any time soon.

First thing I need to do is to take a short run without going into boost so I can heat up the plastic airbridge, and then retighten the T-bolt clamps while it is hot to make sure it snugs up.

Second thing I want to do is to go ahead and bite the bullet and fill up the gas tank with E10. What do I need to change in the tuning for this fuel change?

I'm aware that B3601 needs to be changed. E10 means an AFR of 14.13 correct?

What about any of the PE tables?

Does anything having to do with my wideband need to be changed?

Anything else?

Thanks!

[joecar]

E10: set B3601 to 14.1-14.2... no other change needed.


Your wideband AFR now has to be multiplied by (14.1/14.7)... but if you're using Lambda then you don't need to do anything.

( Lambda is regardless of a fuel's stoich AFR... at the stoich AFR, Lambda equals unity )

[ddnspider]

I must be living under a rock. So if you get regular 93 octane pump gas, because it contains some % of Ethanol, you set B3601 to ~14.2 as your stoic point instead of 14.63?

[hog]

I must be living under a rock. So if you get regular 93 octane pump gas, because it contains some % of Ethanol, you set B3601 to ~14.2 as your stoic point instead of 14.63?

You change the Stoich point in the ECM/PCM anytime you run E10 fuel, premium or not. But most don't worry about it as the OEM's don't, its a small difference, most wouldn't notice the difference. E10 has been in my area since the early 90's and all stoich points in all PCM's are still left at 14.6:1.

[joecar]

E00 to E15: the PCM can handle it using trims (i.e. you will see large positive LTFTs).