Closing turbo vanes for turbo braking?

[bballer182]

set it to vane maximum to 100% for the first two lines to 4000 rpm. Also, you need to change boost to 10 or 15 psi so that vanes will close (they need to produce boost)

Actually you don't have to do that... B2231 and B2232 take care of that.

[bballer182]

Hey guys - I just finished working up my turbo brake - It's great!

The only thing that's NOT great is when I turn the key off it BUZZES LOUDLY.

Any ideas?

I'm in a low altitude area (at about 100 feet above sea level) .

Desired Boost levels EGR ON (Even though I've shut it off via programming)
0 MM3 - from 0 RPM until 1000 RPM at 15 LBS boost
0 MM3 - From 1000 RPM until 4800 RPM at 25 LBS boost
No other changes

Desired Boost Levels EGR OFF
0 MM3 - from 0 RPM until 1000 RPM at 15 LBS boost
0 MM3 - From 1000 RPM until 4800 RPM at 25 LBS boost
No other changes

Turbo Vane Position EGR On
0 MM3 - 1200 RPM - 4800 RPM 100%
No Other Changes

Turbo Vane Position EGR Off
0 MM3 - 1200 RPM - 4800 RPM 100%
No Other Changes

Turbo Vane Position Maximum Low Altitude (other altitude set up the same)
0 mm3 - 300 rpm until 3600 rpm 100%
5 mm3 - 300 rpm until 3600 rpm 100%

Turbo Vane Position Minimum
Not changed
(Although Earlier I had set 0mm3 300 rpm until 3600 rpm to 100%)


Now everytime i turn the key to off, in like 1 -3 seconds it starts buzzing.

Any ideas?

B1501 should take care of that for you if you set it to Disable...

[Jasondt2001]

I tried that! For some odd reason on mine it didn't work :(

I'm going to disable it anyways, the problem was the vane positions set at 100% on my truck I got the vane buzz http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yLcAVY2UVh4

Thank you so much for the help though!
I set the vanes to 99.5 and all's well!

[Jasondt2001]

B1501 should take care of that for you if you set it to Disable...

On a side not - All i have to do is put the b1501 to disable and change nothing else and the EGR is gone???

[bballer182]

no you still have to set the temp parameters so that it never comes on... this only disables the performace testing which is what the buzz is

[killerbee]

Why would you want vane position to be 100% at idle? It just wastes fuel. You can't possible make 25 psi (or even 2 psi) at 1000 rpm.

What I am suggesting is that you run a log, and then put realistic boost values in. This would be in typical Nick fashion, a way of backloading the expected values so that you don't create problematic underboost codes for yourself.

FWIW.

[abkimble]

Energy management

grade braking with a load is a good thing, but lacking a load, you can't coast to conserve energy. Kinetic Energy is always being consumed/reduced to brake the vehicle.

Hypermilers could explain better than I. You can literally plan stops with this vehicle 1/2 mile away, due to its 8000 lb kinetic momentum. That is potentially 1/2 mile with no fuel used. If the truck brakes every time you lift the throttle, you sacrifice this.

Use it to generate some electric.

[killerbee]

a van der graff hooked up to the wifes toes. That would be amusing, as long as there was no hanky panky going on in the rumble seat.

[Jasondt2001]

Why would you want vane position to be 100% at idle? It just wastes fuel. You can't possible make 25 psi (or even 2 psi) at 1000 rpm.

To be absolutely honest... Because don't know any better...
I know that's not a great answer but it's the truth.

What I am suggesting is that you run a log, and then put realistic boost values in. This would be in typical Nick fashion, a way of backloading the expected values so that you don't create problematic underboost codes for yourself.

Log the modified tune and put the values in the desired boost tables is what you're saying?

FWIW.

Thank you for the response!

I've made it so the turbo brake doesn't come on until after 1200 rpm. The reason for this is at highway speeds it still helps without tow haul on, but in town the truck usually goes right back to 1000 and below coming to a stop.
Then when i put it in tow haul, the RPMs stay up so the brake stays engaged.

To be absolutely honest, I haven't towed with it yet, but, it doesn't seem to be as great as I thought it would be.
I'm deathly affraid of hurting something so i might just put it back to stock.

[bballer182]

Why would you want vane position to be 100% at idle? Very true It just wastes fuel. You can't possible make 25 psi (or even 2 psi) at 1000 rpm. true, plus 20% and lower sounds way better at idle

What I am suggesting is that you run a log, and then put realistic boost values in. This would be in typical Nick fashion, a way of backloading the expected values so that you don't create problematic underboost codes for yourself.Not possible to throw an underboost code with 0mm3 commanded, hence the table B2232. It defines the fuel limit where the ecm will control the vanes to match requested boost. Anything lower than the specified mm3 value in B2232 will tell the ECM not to control the vanes to meet requested boost and goes directly off the desired vane position table, and whatever boost it makes it whatever it makes (no boost referencing = no code)

FWIW.

replies in blue

So, if you or anybody wants to be that anal about it then go ahead. Personally, i did it too and just threw some high numbers in there before i actually knew what i was doing. But, that just sounds like a waste of time, to me, to log that and throw it back in there when it doesn't make a difference either way.