LC-1 widband hook up

[joecar]

Ace,

Can you please post a link to the sealed relays, I'm interested in these also...

I agree, being able to have the part numbers handy is very useful for making our own harnesses or repairing existing ones.

I saw those GM part numbers in the Helm manuals, in the section showing the connector end views;
I heard Helm is having a 50% sale on paper manuals older than 2003;
They also sell the CD/DVD which has all previous years, it's expensive, but is worthwhile if you have multiple GM vehicles;
Helm publishes the "factory" GM manuals, the dealers use these.

See www.helminc.com

Regards
Joe

[BowlingSS]

I heard Helm is having a 50% sale on paper manuals older than 2003;

Web site still shows $135 for the 2001 manuals.

Bill

[ace68]

here you go Joe

http://www.ledfoote.com/osc/index.ph...6ca91535656824

[joecar]

Web site still shows $135 for the 2001 manuals.

Bill

Oh... I was mistaken then... Happens to me all the time...

[joecar]

here you go Joe

http://www.ledfoote.com/osc/index.ph...6ca91535656824

Thanks.

[joecar]

Some people have been asking me for more info....

My connectors are wired as follows:

4-way connector:
A = NBO2 Signal Low = LC-1 green
B = NBO2 Signal High = LC-1 yellow
C = Heater Ground = LC-1 blue
D = Heater Power = LC-1 red

6-way connector:
This has both sets of 3 wires from the LC-1 Serial IN and Serial OUT cables;
the other end that this mates to has the Serial IN and Serial OUT sockets.

If you have FlashScan V2, you should be using the serial comms capability, so you do not need this:
3-way connector:
A = Wideband signal = LC-1 brown --> goes to: FlashScan pin C or E
B = System Ground = LC-1 white --> goes to: FlashScan pin D and pushbutton/LED ground/cathode
C = Calibration = LC-1 black --> goes to: pushbutton/LED positive/anode


Note:
System ground (white) is being used as the analog ground for the wideband signal,
and as the ground for the calibration pushbutton/LED.

If using the LC-1 to simulate the NBO2 sensor, my opinion is that the analog ground (green) and system ground (white) should be isolated from any other grounds (i.e. connected directly as above, and not to a common ground); this avoids ground loops (current flowing between unequal potential grounds).

[NAH]

Has anyone got a picture of the plucg/socket for the OEM O2 sensor connection?

[TAQuickness]

like the one Joecar posted (post 67) or an actual photograph?

[NAH]

The actual plug/socket used on an '04 Monaro CV8. I have been advised that it is a flat 4-pin type as oppose to to a square 4-pin & I am trying to source these in the UK. Chances between slim & none methinks. So I need to order something from either Oz or the US & I want to make sure I get the right part.

[TAQuickness]

Which side are you needing (O2 or PCM)? If it's the O2 side, you could possibly track down someone (internet classifieds, ebay, etc...) with with some old bad O2's, have'm shipped the cut the sensors off. If it's the PCM side, you might check with a dealership (local or otherwise). I've been able to replace all my PCM side connectors, when I break one, via local GM dealers.